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Peak Mountain 3

It's a Breeze

FA Dow Davis, Tim Steffan, 1989
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

A good climb up the West nose of the Flying Buttress. Worth doing if in the neighborhood doing Technicolor Corner or Epitaph. First pitch climbs a right facing dihedral with a very nice finger crack to a awkward roof, belay on limestone band from gear or rappel equipment 5.11-, 100 feet. Second pitch climbs up crack to a large chimmney, Belay from bolts on left 5.10 PG 13, 80 feet. One could continue to the top of the Flying Buttress via low angled terrain, but the climbing quality will deterioriate.

Location

It's a Breeze is just left of Technicolor Corner, above the saddle between the Flying Buttress and Tea Pot. Look for a clean right facing corner that ends in a roof below the limestone band. There is a left facing corner just left of It's a Breeze that you can toprope from gear just left of the the limestone belay. It's fun 5.10+ , but a suspect flake makes a lead a serious affair.

Protection

Trad rack with nuts, TCU's, cams to BD#4. Many fingers size on P1. Rap with one rope, a 60M might be long enough, we had a 70M. Chimney on pitch 2 essentially unprotected without a huge cam, but pretty easy, ~5.8. Pitch 1 has a fixed nut and thread for a rap anchor, Pitch 2 has 2 bolts with quick links for a rap anchor.