- Edit (TBD)
Description
Climb a low angle staircase to reach a clean left-facing corner and a number of cracks of all sizes. Some blocks and slightly harder climbing guard a final mantle on a broad dirt ledge at the top. Good stemming, good jamming, abundant pro, this route makes for an enjoyable warm-up for the tougher lines that sprouted in the area more recently. Solid 2.5 stars.
We retreated to this line after getting spooked on two ground-up attempts on the face to the right. These came to an abrupt end when we ran into hollow sections stuffed with large loose blocks and questionable gear. The quality of the corner was not enough to redeem the previous excursions into chosslandia so we packed our stuff and walked away from the Ibantik crag, dejected and rejected.
The route is aka BellaDog Memorial. I dragged that poor old lady all over the talus field a number of times when I was looking for potential lines, she was charged by a goat there, and handled the long hike well into her 10th year when her health was declining. She perfected her swimming technique in the lake and spent a lot of time mock-chasing pikas and lounging in the wildflower meadow below the talus. The route was done shortly after she moved on to greener pastures; I still have a hard time walking that meadow. [/sappytalk]
Location
RC is located about 2/3 of the way across the gigantic Ibantik wall, a few hundred feet left of the prominent semi-detached pillar which is home to
Trust in Tusting (T.iN.T.)
. Find that pillar, walk across the choss-filled gully that marks its left side, go past a section of broken faces with low roofs and into the next choss-filled gully. The line starts at the top of the dirt slope in a clean left-facing corner
Protection
Nuts and a single set of cams from micros to #3 with optional doubles from 0.5 to #3 if you want to stitch it up. The gear options are plentiful but it's a long pitch. A few long runners could be useful but I don't remember much wandering.
The anchors are on the back wall of the ledge at face heights and have rings to rap off. It's probably easier to bring up your second, you can probably make a TR work but the rap is a full 35m to get back to the starting staircase.