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Peak Mountain 3

Whole Thing

5.10 R
trad
FA Bradley and Mayrose, 1969. FFA: Hesse and Bruce, 1974.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great climb, but do not underestimate it given the old 5.10a rating. Locate a notch in the roofband left of

Fat Bottomed Groove

.

  1. An obligatory stem off a fir tree starts the action, then nice moves up a white dike past 1st bolt (3/8" but old) reaches the break. Clip peg and another 3/8" bolt to protect powerful 5.10 sequence through the roof. Belay 30" higher from fixed slings looping a constriction in the crack.

  2. Traverse left to foot of thin crack (RPs and a bit runout). The next 30' is thin, steep and 5.10a. Follow the crack as the angle eases (5.8 and more RPs) and finish with cool traverse right to a belay atop a pillar.

  3. Go up, then diagonal right to the Pear's east shoulder and walk off.

Protection

Many RPs plus a standard Lumpy rack.

Routes in The Pear