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Peak Mountain 3

Over and Out

FA Bob Gaines, Troy Mayr, Mike Van Volkom
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Description

The crux is where the only bolts are located from the start of the pillar / route up the first bit. The climbing gets easier the higher you go.

Location

Farthest right route on the left Smooth Soles Wall. It climbs the arete above Chatsworth Chimney. If leading: start from the bottom of the left Smooth Soles Wall and climb a large crack / pillar (easy) to the highest point. From here the arete and bolts are very obvious. If toproping: walk up the descent gully behind Smooth Soles Wall till you reach the two bolt anchor. If you see only two bolts and no other set about 10' down, you are above the right side and need to traverse 20-40' further.

The Vogel / Gaines guidebook mentions a two bolt optional belay where the climb starts at the top of the pillar. I only found one bolt that spins a bit.

Protection

2 draws, perhaps a couple slings for possible chickenheads. Solid two bolt anchor at top. Can walkoff to the right down the descent gully to Sunshine Wall.