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Peak Mountain 3

My Dark Hour

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Description

Name says it all. This climb is there. Friendly holds, lots of moves, and tight spaces. Sit start inside the cave found on the uphill side of the boulder. No, not there, deeper, underneath the skylight/ tunnel. There will be a shelf to the right of the start where you can place your chalk bucket and beverage of choice.

Grab some nice smooth sloper rails on the bulge. Pick some juggy feet and move out left along a series of slopers. A big left hand move to a sharp sidepull gains a positive hold which is then followed by the crux sequence. Find a hold to match on and bust a hard shouldery unwind move out left into the starting jug rail for "Behind the Barn". Once here the holds improve and the climbing becomes slabby, stemmy and easier. Keep moving left all the way along the slots into the arete and reach up to a nice hold at the lip and topout.

People may be quick to judge this one because of its location, but in actuality it is quite good.

Location

This problem is on the uphill side of the boulder, and it starts all the way inside the dark cave. Bring a headlamp and a spotlight. Watch for the head dabs and back stabs.

Protection

3-6 landing is uneven, but the hardest part of the climb is the first 6 or 7 moves which can be covered with 2 pads.