- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route is described in Mark Kochte's 2002 guidebook Climb Maryland. It was surely climbed earlier than that since it's so close to the hiking trail on the north bank of the Gunpowder River. The route is described in the guidebook as a top rope and is rated 5.7. With a sporty crux, the route feels harder on lead. Follow the obvious crack on the right of the face. Climb to the alcove on the right and then move left into the crack (easier) or start directly below the crack and climb directly through the blades and slots, moving up and slightly right to a great hand hold on the face above the alcove, then left into the crack (harder). Pro is good. Direct start pro is a bit chossy. Pro in the alcove is better. Crux is moving into the big crack. Protect this move with a .75 Camalot in a pocket. This is a committing move that would be hard to reverse. Then big cams and a girth hitch or two on the "rings" in the crack.
Location
Located on the right side of the main Bunker Hill face.
Protection
Gear to 4 inches.