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Peak Mountain 3

Reggae

FA Kevin Donald, 1980.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is commonly rated 5.8, but the crux is short and it is not really any harder than

The Bastille Crack

.

Start from the belay above the first pitch of

Calypso

. Step right a few feet, then head up the obvious dihedral. Finish over a tricky rock into a ledge with a large rock resting over it.

You can continue to the summit or traverse the strata to the left to the walkoff of

Wind Ridge

. The easiest exit is to downclimb (exposed & mostly unprotectable) the ledge to the right, to two bolts on P2 of

The Bomb

to rappel.

If you have a 60 or 70m rope, you can rap 90' from

The Bomb's

P2 anchor, rap from

The Bomb's

P1 anchor.

If you rap with a 50m rope, there are a few choices: 1) you can downclimb 15 feet to a tree with slings & another 80 feet to the ground from here; 2) you can traverse to the

Calypso

anchor with a 30m rap to the ground or 25m rap to the top of the boulder, from which you can downclimb; or 3) you can downlead

Boulder Direct

or

Recon

.

Protection

Standard rack. Fixed pro may exist on the route.