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Peak Mountain 3

The Potato

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Description

This is the last route to the right on the 2nd Meat Wall, just as the rock turns from the dark red to white and gets good morning sun in the winter.

Scramble up 10ft. of blocks to a 20ft. long offwidth in a left facing dihedral. Beware of a loose block wedged inside the offwidth that you can shift just enough to make a good tight-hands jam beside. The crack widens into a chimney and has a short section of sandy/bad rock. Work up to a roof requiring some interesting body movement, then pull over into a real tight-hands crack in lower angled rock to a bolted anchor. A 70meter rope will let you safely lower down onto the boulders 10ft. up and can easily scramble down the remaining few feet.

Location

extremely far right side of 2nd Meat Wall, 20ft. right of Idaho Flake (not listed in current guidebook)

Protection

an old #5 camalot can fit in the beginning of the offwidth, but a #6 friend or the new #6 camalot is needed for the meat of the offwidth. From there take a single set from a #2-#4 camalot. I would recommend 3-4 .75 and #1 camalots each for the upper section.