California Coastline (Free)

We've all wondered if California Coast would go free, right? Well, finally after four years of dreaming, it finally does! The route is only a top rope, as you can only get three pieces of gear in the whole climb if you were to lead it. This route is all about conserving your energy while on the 5.12 to leave enough gas in the tank for the incredible 5.13a fun near the top. I've referred to this upper section as the coolest sequence of crimps I've ever seen, and I'll gladly stick by that. The whole route is extremely technical from the ground to the top, and any mistake down low builds later at the top. It may be just a top rope, but it is a very worthy and rewarding project!

The route is best visualized in three sections.

• First third heads rightward on the slab to a short technical sequence that lands you on a nice jug (5.12a) with a huge pendulum swing potential.

• Second third climbs the crack as it cuts back left (5.12b) and finishes on a big jug rail.

• Third part is the business. Hopefully you saved up your energy! The crack squeezes down too thin for fingers, so instead do a 15' leftward downclimb and traverse to another jug, then power through the slightly overhanging 25' headwall crux. The crux is relentless with tiny crimps, technical beta, two monos and two very difficult deadpoints.

Center of the wall

Top rope off the tree anchor