Half Nelson 5.7/ Full Nelson 5.11b

This is a new route by Tim Kemple Sr. and his friend, Steve Smith. He asked me to try it today to see what I thought of the grade etc. It's still a bit scuzzy but has some nice moves on it. The route is much easier down low and harder and steeper up high. For this reason they put a mid way anchor on it.Half Nelson 5.7- ( more 5.8-ish now as a flake has broken off some time ago) down hill and right of Men In White Suites (5.9) look for a corner with bolts. Climb very moderate moves to a head wall. 5.7/5.8 ish climbing up the headwall gets to a mantel and the first anchor. Lower off or continue on...Full Nelson 5.11b- This upper section is very crimpy and pretty steep. 5.10 ish climbing leads to a hard boulder problem to rach the chains. Finding the holds is the hard part as of now. Once it is cleaner it will be easier to navigate.Still a bit dirty and brittle. This will be less of a problem the more love it sees so give it a try.

Down hill and right of Men in White Suites.

8 bolts to the top i think. Ring anchors on both, top and midway anchor.