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Peak Mountain 3

Tender Flakes of Mercy

FA Patrick Callery & Matthew Fienup (July 2014)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Outstanding moderate face climbing with great position on the wall and an excellent summit. Almost as wonderful as its next door neighbor, Fun in the Sun.

Pitch 1 starts below a small, left-facing dihedral. Bring TCUs (#3 and #0 work well) for the crack above the first bolt. Exit the dihedral to the right and then climb straight up past 3 more bolts and a 2" cam placement. Belay from bolts (5.7, 95').

Pitch 2 heads straight up past bolts. A short 5.8 crux is encountered while stepping from a ledge up onto the upper headwall at the 4th bolt. Belay from bolts (5.8, 95').

When rappelling, be sure to rap immediately to the right and then down from the rap-hangers. If you rap straight down and then swing over to rap station in the middle of the wall, it will be very difficult to pull your rope.

Location

Starts in the gulley about 20 feet left of Fun in the Sun. See the topo

here.

Protection

Bolts and a few cams (tiny up to 2 inches).

In keeping with the style established by Forkash & Anderson on the nearby route Fun in the Sun, the bolt count was kept low. While the individual cruxes are well protected, there are runouts up to 20 feet long on easier climbing.