- Edit (TBD)
Description
Gentle-angle smearing in a shallow, wide chimney steepens to a left-facing dihedral and two large overhanging blocks, one atop the other. Getting atop the first block and then out onto the right face comprises the crux.
The top bolt is placed in a large very detached block that looks ready to go. The block's detachment is not obvious from below. Consider bringing a long sling or mid-sized cam to place in lieu of clipping this bolt. This block is the cause for the 'X' rating.
This climb is the access for a 5.12+? project.
Location
Up the sandy slope to the left along the cliff base, look for the first bolt in the left face of the shallow chimney about 20' off the ground.
Protection
5 Welded-closed cold shuts + anchors. See note on the last bolt before the anchors above.