We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Didilkama Traverse

FA Noah Burke, Balin Miller
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Didilkama Traverse has a lot of choss and low end scrambling, but still, it has its moments. IMO the traverse is not as good as the MTC memorial extension to the Toto to Pinnacle Linkup, but I think it serves as a good alternative if you are looking to do a traverse with less technical climbing.

Part 1: To start the climb, get to the ridge. I recommend walking up left of the Gargoyle.

Part 2: Scramble, climb and rappel(?) along the ridge until you get to the Didilkama. I would recommend simuling as much terrain as you are comfortable with. There are many possible variations.

Part 3: Get to the summit of the Didilkama. From the ridge, climb up to the base of the wall that guards the summit of the Didilkama through some boulders and slabs. Once under the wall, climb up it... We climbed up a massive chimney with a tunnel at a the top (5.8), which seemed to work pretty well.

Part 4: Once on top of the Didilkama, scramble down towards the next tower, and continue along the ridge until you get to the Snowbird Glacier. Most of the technical climbing is behind you at this point, but there is still plenty of route finding to be had. Be prepared to do some rappelling or some really hard down climbing.

Location

There is really no good way to start the traverse, but the most direct way is probably to walk up looker's left of the Gargoyle. Once you are up on the ridge, keep going until you get to Snowbird Glacier.

Protection

gear to #2 or 3, rapping with a 70 is useful