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Peak Mountain 3

Hank Chinos

FA Jon Garlough and Hank Tracy
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Absolutely amazing climbing on solid pegmatite rock.

I don't know whether P2 of "Contact" or P2 of "Hank Chinos" came first, but if they are not the same then they are probably within a few feet of each other on "wide open rock". When we were there, this was the first climb we did, and we utilized the "Contact" double bolt anchors.

START - About 15-20 ft right of "Contact" where the pegmatite streak/band starts.

P1 - Climb easily up the pegmatite 50-60 ft (nuts useful) and cross a smooth slab* (crux ? 5.5 PG-13?) and then up through a minor "headwall" (Here you are about 20-25 +/- ft right of Contact's P1 protection bolts.) Either continue another 40-50 ft up on the pegmatite and establish a gear belay [15-20 ft above the 3ft-flake-on-the-slab], or move left to the double bolt anchor of Contact. 140-150 ft [or 115ft +/-]  5.5

  • See COMMENT below by "Chinos" 

P2 - Up and through the headwall. Belay at a birch tree. 200-210 ft from the Contact belay, 120-140 ft from the gear belay mentioned. 5.4 - 5.5 (and, yes, I know the FA-er's listed the climb as 5.6, maybe we missed the 5.6 )

NOTE: On a subsequent ascent we noticed that from the gear anchor mentioned, another 30-40 ft (150 +/- ft total) up and slightly left there's a Pine Tree with a rap anchor. But even doubled 60m's don't get you back to the Contact dblt bolt anchor. We rapped to the gear anchor with doubled 60m's, then down climbed 5.0-5.2 40 ft down and climber's right to a pine tree and rapped down from there to high-angle dirt & leaves.

Descent - We rapped down the tree line to the right with a single 70m. (See "Tree Line Rap", below) Better to have 2 x 70m ropes and rap from the birch tree to the Contact P1 anchors.

Tree Line Rap- From the Birch tree, Traverse (Class 4 / 5.0) 40-50 ft to a pine tree on the right. This tree has no nice place to stand, so we actually lowered down, the sling and biner still there. 115 ft (35 m) to a White Pine tree. Rap#2 115ft (35 m) to a tree ledge, move 5-6 ft to Rap3 80ft off a 4" diameter beech to the ground

Location

15-20 ft right of Contact

Protection

Standard rack - we used nothing larger than a #1 (red Camalot)