Choss Factor 10

Start with a blind bolt clip on the rounded chossy flare. Work your way up into the super grotty chimney or do a few bold face moves up the arete. Either way a fall will probably knock you silly. Clip another bolt which seems to be after the crux (not good for your longevity) and then wander up the face and grainy cracks to the top. If you have pro, place it. If you do not, well, carry on and keep your wits about you.

Starts just left of Magic Pig with a blind-ish bolt clip out on what could be called an arete. Mussy Hooks at the top.

3 bolts on the route and up high you could lob in a cam or two in the 1" to 2" range.