Cottonmouth

Starts to the right of the base of a 7ft pedestal. Follow the seam up (crux) until you top a small bulge (PG13/R). Transition right and follow the obvious holds up until you reach a small roof. You cut back left immediately under the small roof and then follow the crack up to the bolts with quicklinks and non-locking biners. You can climb the small cracks/corner that is to the left of the route to gain the chains for a top rope session - this goes at something like 5.8/5.9 and requires a small transition right to meet up with the very end of Cottonmouth.

Intensive Route Beta:

Gaining the pedestal is easy, and there is a good small nut placement to reach up and place here as your first piece. Make a couple straightforward moves up to a left hand jug. From here you can place two small cams (think blue/green alien or 0 BD C3) in the crack. These protect the crux/following moves and are vital. Crux can be done with a left handed mantle and deadpoint slap to the crimp above, or by lie-backing the seam by leaning off right. Stick the crux and pull up onto the small bulge above. These couple moves can get a bit heady as there is good ground fall potential here. Once on the bulge you can place a small finger sized piece in a horizontal pocket. From here transition right to good holds. Follow this up while placing easy gear until you get to the small roof. Climb left and hit the massive two-handed jug immediately under the roof with a bomber horizontal 0.5 placement. Continue left for a few feet and shoot up the small crack to the bolts.

Underworld South - this route is on the opposite side of the canyon as most other routes. This means it is much faster to get to if you choose to take the Prophecy Wall road out and hike in off the high clearance road. This also means it gets afternoon sun in the winter. Take the trail as if you were going to the Underworld, but cut right at the base of the cliff instead of continuing down the trail to the river - cairns mark the way along the base of the cliff. Follow this for a couple hundred yards. This route is about 50ft past Size Doesn't Matter.

Doubles in the 0 - 0.5 range, set of nuts, runners, attentive belayer.