Guide's Route

This routes climbs up a giant arete system directly about lower mothers buttress. The suggested approach pitch to climb to begin this route is "Cowabunga". I would agree with that statment. From here five more excellent pitches grace the route. The rock is solid, and requires all the climbing disciplines. After five pitches, get into hiking/scrabling mode till the last 80' of the buttress. There is a 5.7ish pitch to the summit. I was confused where this pitch was, but I did find it, and here's the best was to explain its location. When you come up from the saddle (looking at the topo on pg 126 in the guidebook), don't look for a straight lined offwidth like that in the drawing. The last pitch starts in a crack that goes up for about 12' then forces you the traverse right via face holds towards a right upwards arching off width. The rest is easy to follow. Rumor at Grand Junction REI is that the upper 1/3 of this route fell off. Do not believe their beta! Fun route, more like a mountaineering ascent after the first 2/3. The leader MUST know how to place directional gear to keep the rope out of loose rock. I wouldn't suggest this route to beginning leaders. Bring helmets.

One set of TCUs, one #4 Camalot or #4.5 Camalot, 2 or 3 #3 Camalots, lots of slings.