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Description
This route is another good spicy slab climb. It provides good training for Tuolumne. It can be linked into a single mega pitch although rope drag becomes a factor on delicate moves high on the route.
P1: 5.7, climb the slabby corner to the right of Born to be Mild, head towards a bolt at the steepest section. Clip the bolt and head left to the anchor.
P2: 5.8, climb right past a single bolt to small/medium gear. The route goes into a large slabby corner, this corner is dirty bring a nut tool for cleaning place lots of gear in the crack before the big wide corner. This is the R rated pitch, be prepared for 30+ foot run outs.
Location
Just to the right of Born to be mild, and to the left of Thin as ice.
Protection
gear to 1 inch (lots of stoppers), 3 bolts. 2 bolt anchor shared with "Born to be Mild" and a two bolt chain anchor.