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Peak Mountain 3

Trogdor's Crack (pending)

FA Unknown
CREATED 
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Description

Large crack in wall starts as chimney, and gradually narrows to wide fingers at the top. Could not find any records of this being a climb, and I broke off a lot of thin sandstone along the way. Has the potential to be a classic if it can get some love. It has everything you can do with crack climbing in one route, with a quick section of committing hand jams.

Location

Large crack in wall located 18' left of Overlord (5.10b sport)

(This is not You Got Served, that is right of Overlord)

Protection

0.3-4 cams, small ledge down low can take gear to protect chimney without huge protection. Was able to save my #4 until the second placement. Crux hand jams takes a super solid #2. No anchors. Down climb to left and rappel from tree on ledge as one option. Was able to build gear anchor and top rope, then traverse right on a few pieces, and rap off anchors above Overlord.