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Description
Climbing line starts to the right of the first bolt between a rock ledge and the main face. Devious slab climbing off the ground is protected by a high first bolt (Stick clip this). The high bolt keeps a leader from striking the rock ledge behind in a fall and was explicitly intended to be stick clipped.
Snag a great rest after clipping the second bolt and then move through a series of interesting, but well protected boulder problems, including a second crux before clipping the anchors.
Starting off of a stem from the rock ledge eases the grade, and skips the lower half of the first boulder problem, but wont make the route any less fun.
Location
This route is up around on a semi hidden rock face left of the main climbs. You cannot see it from the main climbing area.
To locate it, walk left around the base of the cliff face from the main climbs for approximately 150 meters until the slope eases up, then double back along the lower face of the cliff until you can scamble up into the alcove that contains this climb.
If you do the approach correctly it should be pretty easy with no 5th class moves.
Protection
Stick clip the very high first bolt. 4 more bolts to to chains with permanent lower-offs.
All of the hardware is stainless steel except for the painted plated steel lower offs.
The route can be set up on TR by doing a painful (locust thorn) 5th class scramble to the top of the climb from behind the wall to the left as you make the approach.
Routes in South Fork
- 1Turkish Delight5.10+Sport · Tr