Lizard's Head

Lizard's Head climbs an exposed, appealing steep crack that stands high above its neighbors. It has great movement, good protection, and an airy position.

Start up the steep crack by using incut jugs and getting good protection. The two fixed pitons (both hang out of the wall a bit more than you might like) can be backed up. A punchy redpoint crux delivers you just below the diving board. Mantle over the final lip and clip a bolted anchor.

Right of Tarzan, around the arete. Look up. This climb is easily visible from the ground when standing near the start of "Fool on a Hill" and "Buttress."

The route can be reached a number of ways. Linking "Buttress" with this in a single pitch was relatively direct but kind of necky.

Climb up to, or rappel onto, the big ledge where "The Nose" begins. The route starts on the far climber's left side of the ledge.

A single rack to a No. 1, two fixed pitons, and a bolted anchor.