Snagglepuss

Snagglepuss is an adventurous multi-pitch route up the heart of Salami Slabs. The first three pitches link discontinuous slabs and surmount the prominent overlap (surprisingly easily) to gain the grand Salami Ledge, where the exposure and views really open up. You may notice the giant snag-topped Doug-fir looming on the skyline. That's the 'Snagglepuss' and it's where you're headed.

The central slab is 350' of wide-open granite that is ascended directly by pitches 4 and 5, which offer the most classic slab climbing on the route. Pitch 6 is a mixed bag that connects to the entertaining (if grubby) finale. Pitch ratings are 5.7, 5.8+, 5.4, 5.8, 5.8+, 5.7 and 5.7.  The two 5.8+ cruxes are short and well protected. See posted topo for details.

If you want to avoid the 5.8+ climbing on pitch 5, consider the 'Catwalk Variation' (5.7 PG): from the 4th belay, head left along a horizontal dike for about 30' feet then follow the diagonal dike that angles up and left. There are 4 bolts that lead you into the second pitch of the Purdie Shuffle (see topo), making for a long entertaining pitch that ties back into the upper part of Snagglepuss.

Getting there is neither hard nor trivial. It starts on the lower left corner of the Slabs and the approach narrative and diagram in the North Exfo section should give you enough breadcrumbs to get there.

Snagglepuss starts right where the approach trail reaches lower Salami Slab. If you find a big wet streak crossing the first pitch, don't panic - it's easy to pad across and the rest of the route is likely bone dry.

Lots of bolts, on most pitches supplemented by a cam or two. Bring a single rack of cams from tiny to 2", nuts are not needed. Although the topo notes key cam placements, there are many more.

The bolting is 'semi old school' and not sport spacing! The harder moves are well protected but be prepared to run it out a bit on easy climbing (mid-fifth or less), notably on pitches 1 and 3. But nothing comes close to an R rating.

Descent requires reversing the route using double 60 m ropes and bolted rap/belay stations. The Purdie Shuffle is a straighter descent to reach Salami Ledge and is recommended.