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Peak Mountain 3

Horsefly Hootenanny

FA L. Bear, Pink; Lover, G..; Roth, M.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Climb 5.10 ground past three bolts to a rising diagonal slash in the wall. Cut right a bit, then move up on crimps in the red-orange rock to a horizontal crease/rail. Make your way left (some campus, some heel-hook) to a tough clip and the redpoint crux. Hero jugs await on the colorful stone above. Finish at anchors below the tree.

Location

This is the leftmost route on the west face of Hillbilly Rock. The route climbs over a small bulge then up a red face to start.

This crag has become too popular for its small size, and climbers have, despite repeated admonitions, created a new social trail to get there that’s creating erosion issues and that OSMP is not happy about. In order to keep access copacetic and ensure the future of new-routing at this and other cliffs, climbers are asked to use the original approach trail, to the East Face of Hillbilly, moving along the eastern edge of the big gully running north-to-south up to the toe of the rock. Cairns have been placed on the talus and rock slabs marking the beginning of this approach. Please leave these in place or feel free to add others to mark the route.

The Flatirons Climbing Council is hoping to have a trail day with OSMP up there this year—to block off the new trail and shore up the old one and more clearly designate access. In the meantime, be extra careful about limiting erosion, and any help in blocking off the new social trail is also appreciated.

Protection

9 half-inch stainless bolts to double-bolt SS anchors (rings).