Beowoof

Beowoof climbs a pleasant corner to a very large, stepped roof split by a diagonal crack. Good holds make the traverse into the roof easier than it looks, but pulling through is strenuous and may be awkward. If you get the beta perfectly right, as I did on my second attempt, it feels like traditional 5.9. More likely it will feel harder. You get into wild positions on this one.

There is a large block near the top of the corner crack, just before traversing under the roof, that should not be used either as a hold or for protection. It is easily avoided, but hopefully this can be cleaned before long. Otherwise, the corner is scruffy in places but will clean up nicely. Once it does, this will be a three-star pitch, for sure.

This ascends the corner and crack system to big roof, immediately left of

Beowulf

.

Wires and cams to #3. We placed a #4 after the crux, but it's not necessary. A few long slings to keep the rope running smoothly. Use hand tape or crack gloves for the roof.