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Peak Mountain 3

Kingpin

FA Adam Baylor and Steve Wolford, June 2018
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An exciting route with some fixed protection to avoid gear placements that could result in dislodging a large flake. The first bolt is about 12 or more feet off the deck but can be stick clipped, reached uphill or use the new bolt just to the right that heads up Heretics Highway/Drills Thrill to protect a ground fall. There is Pro between bolts as needed. Follow the 2nd and 3rd bolts up the right side of the flake with excellent finger locks, foot jams and stemming. Stand on the pillar with a fixed pin from the 1970s (please leave it in place for historic purposes). Gear placements above the fixed pin can protect the traverse to the left as you enter corner to start the arete climb.  Look for 3 more bolts and some rare but bomber gear placements up the arete to a bold finish onto the upper chossy ledge system.  Bolted anchors can be found in 3 spots but the obvious set with chains and rap rings is directly above Kingpin.  Watch for loose rock that may rain down on your belayer, wear helmets and avoid poison oak.  30-25 meters

Location

Look for the first bolt on the pillar and climb to the right of the flake.  Look for a pin mid-way.  Traverse left into corner.  Climb arete to choss ledge.

Protection

6 bolts with sporadic gear placements