- Edit (TBD)
Description
P1: (5.6 C1+) Boulder up a low slopping ledge via a large tree to the start of a shallow right facing corner, easily identified by one good bolt below two fixed pins. Easy aid up bolts and pins to a thin placement then up a nice corner to a 2 bolt anchor on the left side of a ledge, pass this and move right to another anchor next to a large flake.
P2: (C2F) Up the flake to a bolt ladder, some of these bad boys are from the FA and suck. But a couple were replaced 2 years ago. Follow the bolt ladder to a flake and this to a corner and the belay.P3: (C2) The third pitch starts up the same crack system to a bolt on the left, clip this and lower way down and left to a large corner system which is easily climb up to you can clip some fixed heads and gain the ledge under the bridge. A great alternative that is the best way to go in the winter is straight up from the bolt following a great A2 crack and joins the regular route at the heads. P4: (C1 Awkward) The Bridge. It's straight forward and you know exactly where to go, but it is gut busting awkward. Bring the big guns for this one. The crux is going through the flare into the roof proper. Follow the roof and round the corner to another set of bolted anchors. P5: (5.6) Chimney up ledges and blocks to a dirty right leaning corner crack with a beautiful juggy arete next to it. Put gear in the corner when available, but climb on the clean arete when it becomes a viable option.
Location
50' Left of the pendulum bolt ladder. Access a sloping ledge via a large tree that can be chimneyed.
Protection
Standard clean aid rack, 2-4, 2-5, 1-6.Cam Hooks extremely useful, but not mandatory.
Routes in The Mordor Wall
- 12Mines of Moria5.5Trad · Aid