- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route fires straight up the middle of the slab and the flake above. There are 2 bolts high on the route, the first 8 ft below the flake and the second 8 ft above the flake. Stay out of the broken vertical crack to the left that leads to the lone bolt on the A Flake Left. The moves below the flake are easy slab climbing with occasional shallow cracks suitable for tricams, nuts, or small cams. The moves above the flake are where the business is, thin technical moves take you from just below the second bolt to 5 ft above to a nice slopey rail that ends the crux and yields a short path to the anchors above.
Location
Center of the A Flake
Protection
2 bolts, tricams, nuts, and a #1 or 0.75 BD for the flake. A BD 0.0 can be placed in the first 7 feet, and bring a shoulder-length sling to clove hitch a small flake 12 feet from the ground. Bolted ring anchors.
Routes in Buzzard Rocks
- 17Anonymous Flake Direct5.10c/dTrad