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Peak Mountain 3

King's Hand Left

FA Bergo Gerhart & Barry Miller, 1987.
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pitch 1-

Climb up unprotected slab for 150' to an anchor. There used to be a drilled pin on this pitch but it is no longer there, any pro you get on this pitch is mental pro only. (5.8 R)

Pitch 2-

Traverse left before climbing up and over a crux bulge and past 2 bolts to a belay. (5.9)

Pitch 3-

A few variations on this pitch.

Variation #1- I climbed around the left side of the hand and then climbed a chimney between the hand and the rim wall to the top. Rope drag was horrid.

Variation #2- Climb up between 2 of the rock fingers.

The last 10-15' were first climbed by Peter Gallagher by throwing a rope over the summit.

Descent-

Rappel the route with 2 double rope rappels. On the rappel marvel at how scared you were and how low angle the climb really is.

Protection

We had a single set of cams but wished we had a few more.