Friend of the Devil

To Hell With It is a pretty fun route for rock and movement, but it still needs a bit of cleaning up. I intend to apply to the FHRC of the FCC for a bolting permit on the next cycle and open it up as a sport route, but meanwhile, here's one more line on the S. Face of the Red Devil that people can enjoy on TR from the

HIAB

anchors. I grade the route at 10+, but I also believe that it is slightly harder than

Hell In A Bucket

, which I believe to be about 10c.

To start the route, go about 6 meters left (uphill) of the start of

Hell In A Bucket

. There you will see a tiny sprig of a pine tree growing out of a tiny crack about 4 meters off the ground. Low and left of this there is a scooping bulge with an undercling on a horizontal, offset flake. Grab onto the flake,  set some feet, and head on up. Make a move out right to a feature just left and under the pine tree, then head back up and left on pockets, pinches and edges, more or less straight up.

The

Hell In A Bucket

route leans left and gets increasingly close as you rise - don't be tempted onto it. This line goes independently. A lighter brown feature comes in, and you stay left of that. Around the 6th and 7th bolts of

Hell In A Bucket

, it would be easy to pull up and right to reach into that route, but why repeat something? Instead, stay left through a second bulge, again on sidepulls, pinches, and pockets, staying about 2 meters left of bolts 6 & 7 (the bolts for this lie would be 3 meters away). There is a bit of flakey lichen here, but the holds are solid & clean. Finish up on a few thinner moves to a slabby top, about 3 meters left and a meter down from the anchor on

Hell In A Bucket

. From here, you can downclimb over and right to get yourself below those anchors to lower off.

This route is presently a TR and starts 20' left of

Hell In A bucket

, starting and staying just left of a tiny sprig of a pine tree 4 meters up off of the ground in an undercling.

The route goes mostly straight up, but when it approaches

Hell In a Bucket

(which leans left to this line), you stay about 2 meters to the left of that climb at its 6th and 7th bolts, forcing your way through a second bulge, with mostly good holds. I finished the route about 2-3 meters left of the

Hell In a Bucket

anchors.

Presently it is a TR. I'll be submitting this route to the FCC's FHRC as a new route and, if approved, will bolt it for lead.