- Edit (TBD)
Description
The Orange Sling II (5.9)
climbs the upper slabs of the
Gate Buttress
. Begin at the top of
Date with Fate
or
Pebbles & BamBam
(same belay).
This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with
Beckey's Wall
and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of
Beckey's
. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as
Tingey's Torture
. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.
Pitch 1
: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).
Pitch 2
: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).
Pitch 3
: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).
Pitch 4
: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).
Protection
Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3".
Routes in Beckey's Wall Area
- 10The Orange Sling5.9Trad