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Peak Mountain 3

The Orange Sling

FA Brian Smoot & Tom Lund, 1997
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The Orange Sling II (5.9)

climbs the upper slabs of the

Gate Buttress

. Begin at the top of

Date with Fate

or

Pebbles & BamBam

(same belay).

This is a fun, moderate, clean, long route because you get to combine it with

Beckey's Wall

and either of the good slab routes that climb the face right of the last pitch of

Beckey's

. Because of it's length, it has the same feel as

Tingey's Torture

. You get 7 pitches in all, although you may be able to link some of them.

Pitch 1

: climb a slab just right of a short right facing corner to a bolt. Continue up to a gear belay at a fixed pin on a horizontal crack (5.6).

Pitch 2

: Ascend the high quality slab above past 3 bolts to a bolted belay (5.9).

Pitch 3

: Climb the slab above to a steep bulge. A 5.9 finger crack in a left facing corner passes the bulge. Traverse left to a gear belay below a chockstone (#2,3 camalots).

Pitch 4

: Be carefull passing the chockstone and ascend the asthestic nobby arete (1 bolt) and a tied-off nob to the top (5.7).

Protection

Belay off of a giant chickenhead. Bring cams to 3".