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Peak Mountain 3

West of Eden

FA Wilford, mid '70s
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Description

The guidebook gives this one an "R" rating, but I think it would be a reasonable lead if you are a 5.10 leader. Follow the crack system just right of the bolts on

Garden Of Eden

. The lower section protects well, but you will rely on a single piece to protect a groundfall or a big whipper. The gear near the top is tricky and sparse. There is a marginal cam around a purple C3 that protects the moves to the anchors.

Location

This ascends the crack system on the face to the left of

East of Eden

.

Protection

Gear to #2 with emphasis on thin to mid-sized gear....

It can be TR'ed with a 70m rope.