- Edit (TBD)
Description
Ladies and Gentlemen, here is this year's first contender for the 2019 Golden Bucket Award, and in addition that prestigious honor, it is also on the shortlist for BBQ's favorite climb of the year.
For those of you who loved "Albert's Arete" and "Dead Residents", here is your next challenge. THIS ROUTE HAS IT ALL! If you love climbing big holds, on steep limestone, make sure to come to Holy Hanna before the snow flies, and get on this one!
For those who love the climbing on The Prow at the Sunshine Wall, this route delivers a sick, off-width crack start with a runout to the first bolt. Use pockets to clip the second, and then be sure to head right and wrestle the arete-like formation by precisely using a left-hand fingercrack system and a series of crimps with your right. Right when it feels like you are about to fly off, undercling a big hold, stem like an Egyption, and use a hairy-scary, bouldery sequence to grab a jug in order to clip the third after a righteous struggle of pumpy porportions.
From there, the 100% pure fun begins! The whole route is nothing more than an exi-ten-tial exercise of grabbing onto big holds and catching good rests in between tricky sequences were footwork is imperative. Enjoy employing a bunch of strangely awesome stemming and compression moves, filled with thumb catches, crimps, and sidepulls to even better jugs. For those who love hucking to jugs in between thinker sequences -that seem improbable until you feel the orgasmic level of sticking succesfully to the rock- this route must not be missed.
Heyyyy Youuuuu Guysssss! Just like that TV show, "The Electric Company" and "The Goonies" movie, this route will soon be a highly syndicated classic because it follows the simple rules of excess success; climb on jugs, rest, think, climb again, handle some hard to deal with small holds, feel the rush of pumptastic suspense, grab some more jugs, rest and repeat about two dozen times before the final pumpy crux which guards the anchors so well. It is a classic example of classic canyon intermediately hard level climbing.
And while the climbing probably makes for a fairly pumpy warm-up for the accomplished 5.12- climber, this route will surely give the advancing intermediate five ten-er-bug a much needed challenge with a dopamine reward upon redpoint. The flow of sequences during the send is amazing! GET ON IT! GET ON! AND THEN GET ON IT AGAIN AND AGAIN! This route is pure Taster's Choice and 100% Original Canyon Buttery Flavor! So good! SOOO GOOD!
Location
This would be the third route from the very left-hand side of the crag. The new belay stations now make this part of the Holy Hanna crag a must visit area!
Protection
One dozen quickdraws.