Every Which Way But Loose

This has cruxes at bolts 5 through 7 and the upper slab. This route is fun, but heed the name. Avoid the loose stuff on the face and at the overhang traverse right at the first bolt past the first belay. I wanted this route to go right up the overhang, but there is a lot of "bombay crap" in the overhang. Deepest thoughts...hummmmn...this is a serious undertaking for a sport route due to the loose nature of the rock. Helmets are advised for the belayer as well as the climber.

This is in Big Thompson Canyon, in the Narrows, 1.3 miles west of the siphon tube. Start as for the

Trash Can

, clip the first bolt and gain the left face. Face climb past 7 bolts (9+/10a) to a two chain belay. 2nd pitch. Stem across right (long sling-check out the action photo) under the loose roof and on to the left wall of the trash can, up past 4 more bolts and a slab to a two chain anchor.

Can be done in one long pitch, that's how I did it on the FA (I clipped the first bolt of the second pitch and reached back and unclipped the quickdraw that was at the first belay-see action photo). 7 bolts to a 2 chain belay, 5 bolts on the second pitch to a 2 chain belay. Long sling (4-5 feet) for the first bolt past the first belay or the rope drag will kill ya.

To get down, use a two rope rap from the top chains or one rope to the first belay, (getting under the overhang to the chains takes some trickery if you do the one rope thing). Keep the rope right into the

Trash Can

or it can get hung up.