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Peak Mountain 3

Instant Clarification (AKA Rap Route)

FA Chris Kalous and Brandon Latham
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Three pitches.

  1. Climb up to a bolt and traverse left into a dihedral with a pin (5.9). Traverse back right to a another, right-facing dihedral. Go up to a ledge. Bolted anchor.

  2. The second pitch is fairly straight forward up a right facing flake/corner. Bolted belay 5.8.

  3. This pitch winds around a lot. Use double ropes or many slings. Zigzag right then left and follow features to the Notch and bolted anchors. 5.9.

  4. Finish up easy climbing to the top of the tower and south ridge.

Location

On the west face above the old descent gully. This route starts off the grassy ledge from which the

South Ridge

route begins. The route starts just right of the gully that comes down from the notch and begins in a groove to a ledge and a bolt about 25 feet up. It is left of Raven's Song and the

South Ridge

.

Protection

Double set of TCUs 0-5.

Brass.

Set of nuts with extra mediums.

Camalots #0.75 - 3.