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Peak Mountain 3

Boca Roca Grande

FA Hugh Dougher and Henry McMahon, pre 1978
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The well protected right-facing corner with two large roofs. Begin on a narrow ledge 15ft above the trail with rhododendron and a maple growing on its left end. 30 feet downhill and left of this is a flat spot in the trail at a boulder with a finger crack (Henry's Hangout 5.11) Dougher and McMahon originally graded this route 5.5. With more traffic, this route would be excellent. Can be done as one pitch.

P.1 5.7+ 120ft Up the corner past two trees to large roof. Finagle past the awkward roof and belay just above it on small to medium sized gear.

P.2 5.6 60ft Move up to the second roof and pass it on the right. Up a short wide crack (only need .75s) to a tree. The tree blocks the way, so we swung left onto the short white slab to the top, with better exposure. Belay at a horizontal with finger sized gear.

Descent: There is no rap station. Walk off up and left and descend down the power lines, or rap off one of the hemlocks 30ft to the left (not recommended).

Location

Prominant right-facing corner with two large roofs.

Protection

Typical water gap rack. Doubles .5-#2 camalot. Long slings helpful.


Routes in Boca Roca Grande


  1. 1
    Boca Roca Grande
    5.7+
    Trad