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A well protected route that's exposed near the top. Climb up the crack in the corner, exit left and up to a platform. Climb right onto "lemon squeezer" block then up into recess beneath the right side of the overhang (popular pigeon roost). Step left and up into the notch in the overhang, and then continue to the top of the tower. I've broken the climb up into 2 pitches sometimes (like on Jungle Jim) by setting a belay beneath the overhang. It eliminates rope drag and gives a second that's just beginning to follow trad to see what a belay is all.
Location
The start is in the inside corner on the south west side of the Tower below the big ceiling.
Escape off of the back (northwest side) of the tower and head up to the East Bluff Trail.
Protection
Standard rack.
Routes in 12: Rainy Wednesday Tower
- 21Double Overhang5.4Tr · Trad