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Peak Mountain 3

Inflatulation

FA Tom Bohanon, Dave Gottenborg, 12/87
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is on the SE point of the formation, about 100 feet right of

Cardiac Crack

. The first pitch is the main part of the climb; the rest is mostly to just to get to the top, but the the third pitch as described provides some additional offwidth climbing. This is a good warmup for

Cardiac Crack

-- it also gets sun much earlier.

P1: step over the gap and climb the wide crack. It is cupped hands / fist jams and stemming to start. Go past a rounded horn, use the flakes up left, and then get partially in the crack before exiting onto a sloping ledge. Belay at the back of the ledge by slinging a boulder, or continue, 60 feet, 5.8+.

P2: go directly left on an easy sloping crack/dihedral, tunneling under some rock. Then go directly right up a block and belay in a flat area under a large crack, 30 feet, 5.easy (this pitch could be combined with and/or split with the other pitches, but watch rope drag due to the sharp turns).

P3: climb the short wide crack / squeeze chimney, 25 feet, 5.8+ (this pitch is different than described in Haas,

et al.

guidebook but makes an excellent finish in similar style to the first pitch).

Location

From

Cardiac Crack

, traverse right along ledges. Some routefinding and a couple exposed low 5th-class moves are needed. As you round the formation, pass the first overhanging, splitter, wide crack to the second crack.

Protection

Standard rack to #6 and blue Big Bro. Emphasis on big gear, but doubles probably not required.