Apoplexy

This great route has a bit of everything on it, from scary face climbing with little pro, to a well-protected crux at the end.

Start up the face ten feet right of Horseman and aim for a small loose flake. Heaven help the person that falls on the gear placed behind it - it would rip right off the wall! From here you can either escape right to a tree, or climb the real route and head up the roof on the left. Put your game face on, because there are a couple of balancy moves before you get to a good rest. Once you're past the roof, head right to a set of chains.

The Uberfall area

I usually bring a light rack with stoppers and finger-sized gear. I don't think you need anything bigger than a green #0.75 Camalot. Your mileage may vary - other folks use hand-size gear below the roof.