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Peak Mountain 3

Pleasure Feeds Addiction

FA Joe Forte
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Start on the left end of the High Wall on the arete, 30 feet left of Osprey and 20 feet right of "Dragon's Lair". On the left end of the low roof where a rock bench can be found.

P1: Climb straight up the arete on clean rock with good gear, passing a large ominous looking block on the right (avoid). Belay at a 2 bolt anchor (5.8G)

P2: Continue straight up from the belay to the largest part of the overhang. Pull the hang on good gear, 10 feet left of where "Pain" pulls the hang. Continue up on clean rock above until you reach a very thin seam (10 feet left of the upper crack on "Pain Builds Character"). Unlock the sequence and finish at a 2 bolt anchor. (5.10G)

V1. It's possible to diagonal up and left from the belay, around the arete and climb the second pitch of "Dragon's", bringing the grade down to 5.6G

P3: A third pitch is possible but very loose, scary and not for the faint of heart. Most will rap after the second pitch.

2 single rope raps or 1 double rope rap will put you back on the ground.

Location

Between "Dragon's Lair" and "Pain Builds Character"

Protection

Small to medium trad gear.