West Face

First Ascent by Jim Nelson and Carl Dietrich in 1986 at 5.10 A2, The route went 20 years before a repeat, and 21 years later (2007) saw it's FFA by Max Hasson and Jens Holsten, 5.11+

Pitch 1 - Rated 5.7 by the first ascentonists, this pitch is more like 5.9 or 5.10a, with less than obvious gear. Climb up a pillar, cracks, flakes, and occasional knobs, generally straight up. A belay can be made at ~40m on a small (think one foot) stance.

Pitch 2 - The crux pitch. Follow thin cracks and knobs to the left of the large corner, overcome a small roof (5.11+) and belay in cracks above, at the base of an orange flake.

Pitch 3 - Up cracks on the right side of the flake, that gradually widen from 1/2" to 3" - 5.10

Pitch 4 - Up the obvious widening crack above, occasional face holds help when most needed. 5.10++. Belay will be at a small ledge, the first real stance encountered on the route.

Pitch 5 - Straight up the dark corner above, fun stemming and face holds lead to a mantle onto the summit terrace. 5.8

This is one of the best routes in the Cascades.

From the left (north) edge of the face, traverse right on a narrow ledge to a small cairn near where the ledge divides. Begin beneath a long, thin, left-facing corner which is roughly 200' up.

A full rack, including doubles of mid-sized cams and a 4-5" Cam. Offset nuts and small cams are helpful, especially if aiding the crux roof.