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Peak Mountain 3

1000 Faces of 100 People

FA Patrick Purcell
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

True ADK climbing, prepare to get dirty!  Don't forget, lichen and moss don't smear, stay very aware of your feet.  This could really use a brush too, but that being said, cleaned up I'd probably give it 3 stars.P1 (5.6) Climb the crack for 15' then traverse left on a dirty ledge for about 30 feet to 3 cedars.  Look for a right leaning dirty (5.4R) gully above you and aim for that.  Turn onto the arete to the right of the gully when you find holds and climb to the top.  Exit on some slopers up to a tree belay (there is a rap here).  V1 (5.8R) continue left from the cedars till you see a right facing flake system (small nuts and micro-cams possible) on the side of a shallow roof.  Use the side pulls to delicately move up the flakes into an unprotected hands-free traverse back to the arete (and safety!).

P2 (5.7) Traverse left onto the slab there is a big ledge with vegetation.  Go 40' then up and left on the slab.  Use a flake to climb up to another arete and up to a ledge.  Climb a crack on the arete to the top.

Location

Starts in the same crack as the various Tilmans variants but climbs the face to the left instead of the right.

Protection

Most of this climb has excellent gear up to BD #1


Routes in Tilman's Arete