Chieftain

PG/R. Make sure you are skilled at placing protection before leading this one.

Pitch 1: Six feet right of Surprise's open book, climb the face, passing the right side of small ceiling with a serrated lip, then pass the left side of a second ceiling, and finally pass the right side of a third ceiling. Now climb the face at a crack to a belay ledge.

Pitch 2: Move out the center of the large ceiling above and into a left-facing corner system to the top.

It begins from the platform below Surprise, six feet to the right.

Standard rack