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Peak Mountain 3

Idly I De-Ice

FA T. Bubb, M. Salazar, 12/1/12
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This climb is exactly what it looks like: moderate jugs and edges up to an overhanging handcrack through a dihedral. The slightly closed section and pod up top give it a distinct crux just before the finish.

Climb up moderate terrain (5.5?) through some jams, jugs, edges, and ledges to reach the base of an overhanging, right-facing corner. Place a hand-sized cam and head up on solid jams for the top of the corner. The top (crux) is a brief variation in the crack size. Top out, place a directional and head 10' to climber's right to a tree and gear belay.

A sling and biner going from the tree to over the edge allows for a rap back to near the base.

Location

This route lies about 1/3 of the way up the back side (West/Northwest) of the ridge. Hike up from the South end until you come into view of a notch in the cliff, facing West rather than North. There are 3 climbs in this notch, with the obvious. right-facing. overhanging dihedral and handcrack being Idly I De-Ice.

Protection

A set of cams in the hand sizes and a few above or below.