- Edit (TBD)
Description
Perhaps a double entendre in the name? I am not sure. A good route with poor gear in places, it is unique. I found this to be a rough introduction to the Gunks.
The route starts 15' left of P38, a more-popular climb with better protection.
P1: Climb up off of a boulder on unprotected moves (5.10-) to gain a crack, which is climbed to a horizontal. Follow the horizontal left for a few body lengths to a rift in the small overhang and climb up to some roofs above. Wander left through some small roofs, then up and right up a face to reach the top of the cliff.
Descend via Radcliffe just to climbers' right, or the Uberfall Descent.
Protection
Not that great. I felt pretty runout in a few places on insecure moves. Falling would be a pretty bad idea. Take a light rack with a normal range of nuts and cams and see what you can tinker in.
Double ropes are useful.
Routes in b. Jackie and friends
- 3Stirrup Trouble5.10Trad