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Peak Mountain 3

Trapped Like a Rat

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Description

A tough route for the grade, with two strenuous cruxes; hand-jamming skills are useful. The nice big ledge gives you a chance to catch your breath following the initial section, but get some pro in soon afterward or you'll deck on this ledge if you take a fall at the second crux.

Starting below a right-slanting crack, follow the crack up to an overhang. Pull past the overhang (crux 1) and rock up onto the big ledge. Using a knife-edge on the right, layback up to tiered overhangs; power through the overhangs (crux 2) and balance your way up to a stable stance before moving up the left-facing corner and face up to the top.

Location

Starts just right of Harvard, almost directly across from the Uberpooper.

Protection

Medium gear up to blue Camalot; some fixed pins. Belay/anchor tree at the top, or walk easily back to the Uberfall downclimb.