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Description
Krishna Orange is a surprisingly good climb, which is certainly better than it first appears. A wide variety of holds and techniques are required to get up this one, and the position and movement is really great.
Hop up onto the curiously shaped boulder at the base, and get atop that. Place a small and then a hand-sized cam, and pull into the sharply right-leaning crack to go out right around a corner to a good stance. Continue up cracks and flakes, rising up and right until the crack system ends, place a red Camalot on a long sling, and work right a full arm-span into a second crack system. This system is more vertical and is the one you can see standing at the base of the Berlin Wall. Jam and pull your way up this to a lieback section (very solid, protects well) and onward up more jams and flakes to the top. A final crux awaits just before the top. Save a red Alien or purple Camalot for that section, ~1-1.25". Build a gear belay up top.
One can scramble down (still on belay, I'd hope) to the arete on the end of this section of wall or over an edge to find a set of anchors to rap off of. 70' to the ledge or 100-110' to the lower trail area.
Location
Up near the sunny left arete of Upper Krishna, just right of
Vishnu
, a large angular boulder sits on the ledge. Start up onto this to intercept a series of right-leaning cracks and flakes that takes you to the top.
Protection
A rack from 0.5"-4" with doubles 1"-2.5" being ideal. The book suggests taking two #4 Camalots (C4, not old type), but one will do. I took 2 each and still had the extra #3 and #4 up top, though they came in handy for a directional.
A cordalette around a large boulder and the extra #2 provided a solid belay.
Routes in Krishna & Serenity Spire
- 9Krishna Orange5.9Trad