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Peak Mountain 3

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FA Josh Wharton and Jed Wareham-Morris with help from Erinn and Hera Wharton
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Description

Nasty tech weirdness up a seam feature leads to a big break. Continue with an easier but surprisingly difficult finale out the "5.10" bulge, which can be surmounted by looping left or right.

The movement is cool, and there is some nice rock, so if it was a little less sharp, a little longer, and didn't have the break, it would almost be a classic...almost. It did seem pretty hard though, which is always a redeeming feature, although it's probably 8a+ in 1984 Eldo grades.

Apparently this was a long abandoned Luke Laeser project. I'm unsure if anyone had actually tried it much over the years. The bottom seemed like it had been climbed on a bit, but the top was untraveled. Good training crag if you are planning a European tour of obscure, miniature1980s vertical limestone.

"Gold Hangers" and the "Slab Compressor," located 10 minutes downstream, look like they deserve more love.

Location

This is the first route to the left of the 12a "

Crack Seam

."

Protection

6 bolts to fixed 'biners. I stickclipped the third bolt,and would not have added the first two had I bolted the route. Clipping the fourth bolt is tricky. Clipping the fifth bolt is easy but a bit spicy.