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Peak Mountain 3

Ripper Arete

FA Larry Duin, Jay Sell
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Starts over the right side of the Arete with a surprisingly difficult boulder problem up a block past a bolt on grainy poor quality rock to a good stance and the second bolt.  Here the rock quality improves quite a bit.  A tricky step down and left leads to easier face climbing and some cool knobs past the 3rd bolt.  Try not to fret that you can't see any more bolts.  There is some gear to be had.  I cut out right toward the Arete past a small flake/crack blocked by a very thorny bush that takes a  1 or a 2-inch cam if you tolerate the thorns.  Now go up the blunt Arete climbing over a dubious-looking black semi-detached diorite block that you will end up putting gear behind (finger size cam) out of desperation, but you probably shouldn't.  Think light thoughts and gently ride this thing up to easier terrain and your final bolt.  You can either climb up a cool-looking but contrived pillar past a knob tie-off to the 2-bolt anchors, or you can just skip the difficulties by taking easy 5.5-ish jugs up to the left and traverse back right to the anchor.  Note:  It is not easy to see the anchor on the climb.  It is straight up the pillar/Arete but it is easy to get lured left due to the easier climbing and a visible single bolt high and left.  Do not get lured too high and left by this visible bolt as I did.  This leads you to the top of the cliff, but there are no anchor bolts there and I was faced with a long unprotected down climb/traverse to remedy the situation.

Location

GPS base of the route:  Lat: 38 50.1568N, Lon: 120 00.6599W

Protection

5 bolts, supplemental cams to 2 inches, slings to prevent rope drag, slings for knob tie-offs, 2-bolt top anchor with screw links.