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Peak Mountain 3

Absolutely Free, Right Side

FA Mark Klemens and Jim Bridwell, May 1970
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

This is a great route for those obsessed with collecting routes first freed by Mark Klemens.  Consider this another "adventure" route on this formation.  Note, however, that this has "5.10" off-width climbing on it, where the route was climbed and rated in 1970 by Klemens and Bridwell.  5.10 is the traditional rating so take that with a grain of salt. In other words, if the only 10a off-width you have ever done is

Doggie Do

, expect this to be about a million times harder.

Start as for Absolutely Free Left and Center routes, but climb the boomerang-shaped flake to the right up to a sloping ledge that can be followed down to the right to a belay below the right side of the main formation. The crux is the pitch above this.  Climb the wide crack to a roof.  Follow the roof out to it's right edge and execute very difficult, wide moves to establish yourself in the corner above.  Continue way up the corner for the rest of a full pitch to a belay below a point where the corner starts to lean more to the right.

Pitches 2 and 3 continue all the way out and around the bulging right side of the corner to the big ledge system above.  Descend as for Absolutely Free Left and Center routes.

Location

The same place as for Absolutely Free Left and Center routes.

Protection

Gear to 8"