Bandersnatch

The difficulty, protection, and enjoyment of this route are greatly dependant upon how you'd like to do it. There is an optional start that is fun moves, but terrible rock, ergo- a bit hard to protect. If you just do the upper part, you do the crux, and the rock is mostly good.

This route is toward the right side of the crag, and is the next major crack line left of the right-most route, Adult Books (a changing corners or 'flip-flop' dihedral.)

At the base, there is a bulging, crumbling handcrack in white rock and a left-facing corner that might be best avoided because of the inherant nastyness, or just due to rope-drag. Being an idiot, I did this anyway. Being even more of an idiot, I enjoyed it.

Or simply work your way to the left and up onto the next ledge to start the climb on solid rock and with no rope drag. As well, your belayer will be able to see you and keep you off of the ledge at the crux if you fall, as less rope and drag will be inherant.

Move up the thin and tricky crack on strange side-pulls (10b) to gain killer locks and jams and then ride the crack the rest of the way to the top, which is moderate. Crux pro for me was a few thinner cams.

Belay on medium gear up top and then walk/scramble off to climbers right and then boulder-hop back up the gully to the base.

The gear is a little tricky and strenuous in places, but not dangerous, so long as it is placed in good rock. Take a standard light rack (1 set nuts + cams .5"-3")